[On occasion, as a special feature for The Prairie Editor subscribers,
I invite the venerable food critic Leo Mezzrow to write a column on
a culinary topic. This one is about the state of the restaurant business
today, and where to dine out in the Twin Cities of Minnesota and its
environs. While my readership is national and worldwide, a
significant number of readers either live in the area now, once lived
here, or visit this now booming restaurant community. So I hope
readers find the list useful. ------ THE PRAIRIE EDITOR]
SPECIAL FOOD COMMENTARY
by Leo Mezzrow
The restaurant business, like so many other aspects in our American
culture, is going through a great deal of change. Some of this change
is good, and some of it is not so good, and most of it is being driven
by technology and economics. Some of it is also affected by changing
dining public tastes which, like all aspects of public fashion, are brief
and easily altered. While technically national inflation is deemed low
by financial institutions, prices seems to be rising notably for those
who dine out --- caused primarily by rising labor and food costs. Chain
restaurants, both low and higher end, seem to be affected the most,
but it can also impact the small neighborhood ethnic restaurant. Other
factors include increasing local regulations and rising local taxes,
especially in large urban cities. In short, it is a tough business getting
tougher. Somehow, however, the quality level generally of U.S.
restaurants, and the food they serve, continues to rise.
An excellent example of this phenomenon is taking place in the Twin
Cities of Minnesota where, in less than a decade the local food culture
has blossomed. The seeds of this were sown in the decades before by
innovative local restaurateurs and their young talented chefs. Most of
those pioneers are gone now, and there were relatively few of them,
but they deserve much credit for provoking rising expectations in the
dining out public, especially among the young who have grown the
”foodie” population to a significant size. Interest in “good” food and
dining out has always been strong in the largest U.S. cities, and
certain smaller cities such as New Orleans and San Francisco, but
cities such as Minneapolis and St. Paul have come to the new
culinary party later.
Below is a list of my favorite newer Twin Cites restaurants (listed
alphabetically) with brief descriptions of their cuisines. I have only
included those which I have visited. These are not food reviews,
and readers can do an internet search for addresses, phone numbers,
hours and days open, and menus. This list is current, but restaurants
do close, so I recommend an internet search before going, Every
dining experience is unique, as are each diner's expectations, so I
can't guarantee the good time I have had. Prices will vary. Some
readers might also know other restaurants which are their favorites.
I will try to update this list on another occasion. Bon Apetit!
[NOTE: This list does not include my favorite area restaurants
which are longer-established such as TILIA, 112 EATERY,
GORKHA PALACE, BIG MARINA, BAR LA GRASSA,
PENINSULA, M STREET CAFE, MANCINI’S, etc. More
about them another time.]
MINNEAPOLIS
BAD WAITRESS NORTHEAST (American)
CAFE ALMA (innovative American)
CENTRO (Mexican)
COSTA BRAVA (Spanish tapas)
ESKER GROVE (innovative continental)
GIULIA (upscale Italian)
HAI HAI (Asian fusion)
THE LYNHALL (innovative American)
POPOL VUH (innovative Asian)
TAVOLA (Italian)
TULIBEE (innovative Nordic)
MOMO SUSHI (Japanese/Tibetan)
P.S. STEAK (upscale continental steak house)
TEA HOUSE SOUTHEAST WEEKEND BUFFET (Szechuan/Hunan)
ST. PAUL
BAR BRIGADE (French)
COMMODORE (Continental)
HOLMAN'S TABLE (American)
LOUIS AT COSSETTA (upscale Italian steak house)
PAJARITO (Mexican)
SUBURBS
BELLECOUR French)
LATITUDE 14 (innovative Asian)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright (c) by Barry Casselman. All rights reserved.
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